Add a little tenderness

       Hidden in the elusive and winding sois of Bangkok are many architectural gems built decades ago. Typically situated on these properties are several airy and unpretentious wooden or brick Thaistyle homes facing vast manicured lawns lined with ancient trees and decorative potted plants. Surrounding the compounds are protective moats, neglected over time and invaded by untamed vines, weeds, water hyacinths,and lotus.
       Modest versions of these same styles of Thai homes are found scattered throughout small and large moo baans or villages in Thailand. Some are built near the edge of the klongs (canals). In these moo baans , the older villagers' habits remain unchanged. At all times of day, one can see the old-timers paddle out in their sampans to pick edible wild shoots and greens. They forage among the thick blanket of vegetation for the young and tender shoots of a wild water spinach, or phak bung .My parents, who were Chinese, had a great love of phak bung . During World War Two,when the Japanese began bombing Bangkok,they fled from their shophouse on Siphraya Road to seek refuge with one of my mother's clients, a German doctor and his wife who lived in the Bangkapi (known today as Sukhumvit) area. They were given a makeshift shack near a klong in which to live.Day after day my mother, together with other neighbouring Thai villagers, would gather wild greens, including phak bung ,along the canal's edge to make stir-fries, to add to soups, and even as filling for Chinesestyle dumplings if and when she could get some flour. According to my Papa you could pick as much as you wanted one day and the next day, new tender shoots would grow overnight to take their place.Phak bung kept my parents from starvation during the war.
       Phak bung became available in America as recently as a decade or so ago. Southeast Asian settlers, particularly the Vietnamese,Laotians and Hmong began growing it for sale. It was inexpensive and for Asians,phak bung reminded us of home. So you can imagine my surprise when I saw it one day at the most expensive vegetable stand in Rancho Santa Fe in San Diego County,California. Situated among multi-milliondollar homes, this little vegetable stand is owned and operated by a Japanese family named Chino, who sell their gourmet and organic vegetables to people who never talk about the prices.
       The Chinos pride themselves as the family who introduced exotic and rare vegetables to the rich and famous. Among these was phak bung , which they called swamp spinach. With a name like that, no wonder phak bung disappeared from their stand shortly thereafter.
       Nowadays, during the summer months,cleaned and beautifully wrapped bundles of phak bung can still be found in upscale farmers markets in areas with a large Asian population. Sold for at least triple the price compared to the massive bundles one can buy in Asian supermarkets,phak bung has gained a new status among American chefs as an exotic, rare and pricy green vegetable.
       American shoppers are curious when they see these bundles of deep green, slender and hollow stalks with beautiful ovate leaves.They have, however, no idea what to do with it. Should one use it as decoration, eat it raw as salad greens, or perhaps steam,boil, deep-fry or stir-fry it?
       In comparison, we Thai cooks have no problem knowing what to do with phak bung . During the monsoon season, it multiplies rapidly, invading ponds and klongs .Its crunchy, cool-refreshing and blandflavoured young shoots are prized as a perfect accompaniment for spicy nam prik (chili sauce). We also stir-fry it with garlic,chilies and bean paste to make phak bung fai daeng , a delicious, simple and quick side dish that we serve with a bowl of warm cooked rice. Some of us are inventive as well as mindful of waste. Long, over grown stalks are not discarded, but slivered into hair-thin strands that are stir-fried with the same seasonings as fai daeng . One of the best dishes using phak bung is a spicy,coconut soup called gaeng tae-po . This is a creation served up by cooks from northeastern and southern regions of Thailand.This rich and savoury soup blends peppery chilies with salty dried fish, creamy coconut cream, fruity tamarind and sweet palm sugar.
       However, my favourite way of cooking phak bung is old-fashioned.Phak bung pad nam prik sod is an inventive recipe combining together phak bung with ingredients for nam prik kapi , or chili sauce with fermented shrimp paste, in a stir-fry.Its taste and aroma remind me of the beach and ocean after a heavy drenching of monsoon rain. The air turns cool, pristinely cleaned with just a faint scent of the wet earth, warm sand and salt water intermingled with the sweet perfume of bruised blossoms.
       An intriguing bit of information about phak bung that I find fascinating is that Thai folk doctors use it as medicine. Eating phak bung is believed to be good for the eyesight. It is also a diuretic and an antidote against heat from chili overload. Older timers brew phak bung as tea to dispel poisons from overindulgence in alcohol, opium and other psychotropic drugs. An old traditional folk doctor told me that it is even used as an anti-depressant for mentally ill people.Whether you choose to believe Thai folk doctors or not,phak bung has been proven scientifically to be full of iron, beta-carotene,and vitamins A and C, whose benefits oddly coincide with some of the Thai folk doctors beliefs. In particular, iron is a vital compo-nent of our blood. Insufficient iron content in our diet can lead to anaemia which makes us weak and fatigable. Vitamin A and C are good for the eyes, skin, bones and immune system. Next time, when you have a craving for phak bung , it might just be because your body needs a booster, a cure, or some soothing relief.m
       Su-Mei Yu is an author of Thai cookbooks, including the award winning, Cracking the Coconut: Classic Thai Home Cooking, Asian Grilling, and to be released in October, The Elements of Life, A Contemporary Guide to Thai Recipes and Traditions for Healthier Living.
       Phak Bung Pad Nam Prik Sod Spicy Stir-Fried Water Spinach
       Makes 4 servings Ingredients for chili paste 114tsp 4 to 57 to 8 1 tsp 2 tbsp 11
       2tbsp 1 tsp salt garlic cloves,peeled bird chilies fermented shrimp paste fish sauce of lime juice of palm sugar Preparation
       In a mortar, pound the salt and garlic with a pestle to a puree.Add the chilies and pound until they are slightly pulverised. Add the shrimp paste and pound to incorporate. Add the fish sauce,lime juice and palm sugar. Use a spoon to stir and mix. Set aside.
       Ingredients 1 tbsp 12cup (160g) 8 cups 3 to 4cooking oil small shrimp, cleaned,deveined and dried thoroughly tightly packed phak bung stems and leaves (cut lengthwise into 5cm pieces), separate stems and leaves in two piles red cayenne chilies and yellow Hungarian chilies combined, slightly pounded Chili paste Preparation
       Heat a wok over medium-high heat for 1 minute. Add the oil and wait for 30 seconds before adding the shrimp. Stirfry until the shrimp turn pink. Add the phak bung stems and stir-fry until the colour brightens. Add the chili paste and stir-fry to incorporate. Add the phak bung leaves and cayenne chilies. Stir-fry until the leaves turn limp. Transfer to a platter and serve hot with red organic rice.Note:For vegetarians, leave out the shrimp.