COOKING WITH COCONUTS

       Bunches of coconuts in various stages of maturity.
       The answer is yes and no.
       In the past, the coconuts used in cooking were harvested when they were still young and green, and sold for their tender meat and sweet juice. After a new variety called maphrao nam hom - which literally translates to "coconut with a fragrant juice" - was developed, the former lost favour and most of the green coconuts now sold at the market are of the new variety.
       Maphrao nam hom seems to have been developed specially to be eaten when it is still green. Its juice and young, tender meat have a certain fragrance lacking in the old variety, and are also sweeter. The tree is more prolific, and as it is only about two to three metres tall, the nuts are easier to harvest than those of the cooking variety, which grows to about 20-metres tall.
       In Thailand coconut trees are planted on large plantations and small groves. They can be seen along seashores, as well as in gardens where the maphrao nam hom graces the front lawn while the coconut used in cooking towers in the backyard.
       Nearly all provinces in Thailand have coconut trees but the southern provinces, from Phetchaburi and Chumphon down to Samui island in Surat Thani, are known for their plantations of coconuts used in cooking, while Sam Phran in Nakhon Pathom is famous for maphrao nam hom.
       The coconut tree starts bearing fruit about seven years after planting, and reaches full bearing capacity when it is 10 years old. The fruiting starts when a solid green sheath, known as the spathe or spadix, appears among the green leaves that look like giant fern fronds.
       After a few days the spadix opens to expose the flowers, which are transformed into coconuts after pollination by friendly insects. Every month hence, a new spadix appears and new flowers open, until the base of the leaves are surrounded by about a dozen bunches or clusters of nuts in varying stages of maturity.
       Seven or eight months after pollination, the coconut can be harvested as the prized maphrao awn, or green coconut, which is sold for its sweet, refreshing juice. At this age the white, jelly-like meat that lines the inside of the shell can be easily scraped from the shell with a spoon and is also eaten.
       MATURE COCONUTS FOR COOKING: The coconut reaches maturity 12 months after pollination.
       At 10 months, the coconut is either too old to be served as a beverage as the water has turned bland. Its meat, still too young to be pressed for milk, can no longer be scraped with a spoon and has to be grated off the shell for use as a topping or garnish for sweets and desserts.
       Twelve months after pollination, the coconut reaches maturity and begins to turn brown. Once it is brown, the shell is removed from the husk and split in half. The white meat, on the average about 10mm thick, is grated off the shell and then hand-pressed for its milk. It is this milk that is used for cooking the many dishes and desserts of which Thailand is known for.
       As each bunch of coconuts matures, the accompanying leaf also starts to dry up, turns brown, and eventually drops off. However, there is nothing to worry about, as new leaves and new bunches of fruit will appear at the crown in a continuous process of renewal that goes on and on for at least 60 years.
       At old age, the tree no longer responds to care, its leaves become narrow and fruiting becomes irregular. However, plantation owners usually do not wait for their trees to die of old age. After the trees have been bearing fruit for 30 to 40 years, they start to replace these with new seedlings.
       Some plantation owners do not even wait that long to replace old trees. When a new, better variety that brings better returns comes up, they replace the old trees with the new variety, which is the reason why most of the green coconuts now sold at Bangkok's markets are maphrao nam hom.
       However, in southern Thailand, where coconuts used in cooking are more prevalent, I am sure you can still buy green coconuts of the old variety.
       Some people avoid eating dishes using coconut because they think it is oily and fattening, but studies have found that coconut oil in fact is good for the health and has many healing properties. But that's another story.
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